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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.