Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.